Topas

[We-Ha]

Terminals ? Siehst du nicht die zusammengerödelten Strippen ?

[Benny]

The "Woofa Veneering Guide"
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In order to prevent the matches of the veneer to stay visible, it is necessary to apply veneer by starting at the back of the speaker. Then apply the sides and at last the front.

1. If the veneer stripe is to small to fit the width of the material, it has to be matched. To match veneers be sure to get veneer, which is cut in same slices (so called mirrorred veneer). The veneer optic has to be symmetrical. Then cut the veneer into used sizes + 1 cm (0,5 inches) on each dimension. To avoid gaps while mathing veneers, the edges have to be 100 % straight. To fix that problem, harness the veneer between two pieces of MDF and mill the edges. Don’t forget to use clamps...

2. Instead of using the milling machine, you may prefer to cut the edges by hand...

3. After that, the edges have to be sanded with 120 dots sand paper.

4. Before applying the veneer to the box, tear up the middle of the box side.

5. Glueing up the MDF with white glue... (Be sure to glue up the right side of the veneer too...)

6. Apply the veneer on the box. Be sure that the veneer matches with the line, whith is teared up. Then put some MDF plates (at least 19 mm (0,7 inches) thick) upon the sheet and PRESS DOWN AT LEAST 15 MINUTES with very heavy weight.

7. When the glue is almost dry (an hour later when using „express white glue“), iron the edges by holding the flat- iron in 45 degrees. While doing this, the white glue will become liquid again and the veneer is pre- fixed to the next steps.

8. File the veneer- edges with a file, whitch is held in 45 degrees. PRESS ONLY ON DOWNWARD MOVEMENTS. When the veneer becomes thinner, lift up the file to approx. 80 degrees. After a few strokes, the veneer can be pulled away by hand.

9. Sand the edges again carefully. No glue or strains should appear on the veneer.

10. The veneer on the front is applied exactly as before, but the baffles are glued and ironed. The glue has to dry a short moment, until it is „milky“. While ironing, the glue becomes liquid again. DON’T FORGET TO PRESS...

11. Dots of non- applied veneer can be ironed too. To find those dots, caress the veneer with one finger. Listen to the sound. Where it sounds „hollow“, iron...
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@ Mr. Woofa = Ich genehmige den Gebrauch auf deiner Webseite...

[shinobiwan]

Original geschrieben von monoton
Nice setup! I wonder where you placed the terminals...? Do you like their sound?

The speakers are unfinished and missing a 2" plinth which supports the speaker and has the terminals.

If you look at the pictures you see its just bare wire at the minute

[shinobiwan]

Original geschrieben von Benny
The "Woofa Veneering Guide"
-----
In order to prevent the matches of the veneer to stay visible, it is necessary to apply veneer by starting at the back of the speaker. Then apply the sides and at last the front.

1. If the veneer stripe is to small to fit the width of the material, it has to be matched. To match veneers be sure to get veneer, which is cut in same slices (so called mirrorred veneer). The veneer optic has to be symmetrical. Then cut the veneer into used sizes + 1 cm (0,5 inches) on each dimension. To avoid gaps while mathing veneers, the edges have to be 100 % straight. To fix that problem, harness the veneer between two pieces of MDF and mill the edges. Don’t forget to use clamps...

2. Instead of using the milling machine, you may prefer to cut the edges by hand...

3. After that, the edges have to be sanded with 120 dots sand paper.

4. Before applying the veneer to the box, tear up the middle of the box side.

5. Glueing up the MDF with white glue... (Be sure to glue up the right side of the veneer too...)

6. Apply the veneer on the box. Be sure that the veneer matches with the line, whith is teared up. Then put some MDF plates (at least 19 mm (0,7 inches) thick) upon the sheet and PRESS DOWN AT LEAST 15 MINUTES with very heavy weight.

7. When the glue is almost dry (an hour later when using „express white glue“), iron the edges by holding the flat- iron in 45 degrees. While doing this, the white glue will become liquid again and the veneer is pre- fixed to the next steps.

8. File the veneer- edges with a file, whitch is held in 45 degrees. PRESS ONLY ON DOWNWARD MOVEMENTS. When the veneer becomes thinner, lift up the file to approx. 80 degrees. After a few strokes, the veneer can be pulled away by hand.

9. Sand the edges again carefully. No glue or strains should appear on the veneer.

10. The veneer on the front is applied exactly as before, but the baffles are glued and ironed. The glue has to dry a short moment, until it is „milky“. While ironing, the glue becomes liquid again. DON’T FORGET TO PRESS...

11. Dots of non- applied veneer can be ironed too. To find those dots, caress the veneer with one finger. Listen to the sound. Where it sounds „hollow“, iron...
-----

@ Mr. Woofa = Ich genehmige den Gebrauch auf deiner Webseite...

Nice work Benny!

You're a true gent.

I agree with you on the point that Mr Woofa's guide is one the most accessable on the net, I've lost count of how many times I've searched for information on the subject and come up with nothing.

Expect to see some veneering soon and thanks again!

[DerAlteDachs]

@shinobiwan:

Do you think about Aluminium- or Carbon-Panel`s ?
Think it looks great at this cool-technical-styled Topas !

[MrWoofa]

Wow Benny!

Das werde ich dann gleich mal auf meine Seite basteln.

EDIT: Da fehlen bei dir irgendwie win paar Nummern? Muß ich mich ein ander mal mit beschäftigen.

[mark]

very well done! respsct to this kind of work- i think this speaker plays well or better than the original ...